Which lining paper for painting
The grades range from to and vary quite a lot in thickness between the lowest to the highest grade. If you are using some of the higher grade lining paper make sure you allow the lengths of paper enough time to soak and become pliable. The time will increase for each grade of paper thickness.
For most jobs I use grade, it is thick enough for most jobs and is easy enough to work with. I use it for both walls and ceilings. If you decide to go for the heavier grade papers and then you may find it difficult to handle and work with, this will obviously depend on your experience and room shape and size.
Lining paper was designed as a base to wallpaper onto, however you can emulsion over lining paper without any problems. You should always prepair the walls, by this I mean you still need to fill the holes with filler, rub down the walls etc.
If the room is cold or damp you may have to allow longer for drying. This means either buying a packet of size or alternatively a diluted mix of wallpaper paste applied to the wall. This will stop the lining paper drying out to quickly and give a stronger adhesion to the newly plastered wall. There is an area by the window where the wall looks uneven and a has raised areas.
The rest of the wall quite a big area is perfectly fine We are planning to sand the rough areas down and then put lining paper over it but wondered if we could get away with just putting lining paper on a small section of wall and some way concealing the edge of the papered area or do we need to cover the whole wall with lining paper.
Would a thick lining paper cover the bumps of the textured wallpaper? I would always advise to remove paper. If taken of carefully you may be able to line the plasterboard and emulsion or paper? Hi there. What would you suggest. Many thanks Terry. It maybe worth filling and sanding rather than paper unless just minor defects. Who ever did the painting before did it with a brush so there are A LOT of brush marks giving a poor visual finish.
I would like to hang lining paper and then put matt emulsion over that but my question is, Can you hang lining paper on vinyl silk walls? Lining paper should stick to silk emulsion ok, you can give the walls a light rub down first with a fine sandpaper just to take the shine off a little. I have used the grade on a few rooms in the house and painted over it and I do think it is good quality lining paper.
The problem I am facing is that in the final room I am trying to decorate — I discovered when I was attempting to strip it, that it had one layer of bamboo like textured paper which came off quite easily with a steamer but this was papered on top of another shell patterned textured paper and this shell paper was pasted directly onto drywall with no sealer coat.
Hence my question of these 2 papers which one would give the best coverage? We have a medieval house with lime plaster walls I painted with FB Estate emulsion. I now want to wallpaper fed up of plain walls! Do you think mm lining paper will be OK? It is hard to say without seeing them but after any prep work that is required should be OK, it is what I typically use. I painstakingly stripped 4 walls, 2 plaster boarded and two bricked that had woodchip wallpaper.
I took my time and with very little damage to the wall I was able to remove the top layer and the sticky backing layer. Where do I go from here, should I invest more time in somehow removing the pva and paint layer or should I use lining paper? My aim from the beginning was the strip the wallpaper and then paint the walls. Try filling the walls and sanding them down, then one coat of a white emulsion, this way you can see how the walls look painted, you will have to do the prep work anyway, if the walls are not good enough then line them before painting with the colour.
My problem is that the previous owner has put up what looks like poor quality lining paper and painted over. The seams are now coming apart and the walls are so poor it looks as if to try and remove the paper would, at the very least, leave holes in the wall.
There is no dampness anywhere in the house and the area looks clean. Is there any covering I can use on top of the painted lining paper? Or if putting on new thick wallpaper is the only answer, can I hang the paper so that the current seams would lie within the new strip of wallpaper? I would imagine the reason the walls seem soft is they may of been lined first with polystyrene to insulate the walls and then lined.
The only problem with lining over this is it may not be stuck that well and eventually come off. If it was mine I would be inclined to remove it and start from scratch, it could save headaches later. You can line it horizontally cross lined if you wish, if you think the majority is stuck down well.
If you use a border adhesive to glue down the lifted joints first. I am about to decorate my bedroom but the ceiling is quite badly cracked from age and from an attic conversion above. I did consider having the ceiling skimmed but have been advised that skim may not always stick to ceilings that have been painted and stipled in this way. Another choice was to plaster anew but we have insulation in the attic above which might start falling if we take the ceiling down.
I have considered ceiling lining paper but I am not sure it will cover all the imperfections. I would appreciate your advice. They could seal the ceiling and even put tape over the cracks. It should be the best long term solution. Total wall area is approximately m2 and ceiling 50m2 all of which are plastered and have various layers of emulsioned embossed paper on them. In a considerable number of areas the paper is scuffed and the plaster is blown.
The cost for stripping and replastering are extensive and it has been suggested we take an alternate approach and over line with a modern fibreglass lining paper. I tend to like to start from scratch, so stripping wallpaper etc, making good if required. I know this comes at a cost but it is a long term solution. It is up to individual people to decide what they can do or how much they can or want to spend. This is my own opinion and will differ from others. It is also hard for me to recommend a solution without seeing the problems.
First and foremost, paste-the-wall is a superior alternative to conventional lining paper. Rather than pasting the paper and waiting for it to expand before applying to the walls, you simply paste the wall and apply the paste-the-wall lining paper directly.
Looking at more specific paste-the-wall liners, we recommend WallRock Fibreliners. As well as the original Paste-the-Wall Fibreliner , they are available in a couple of specialist options. The smooth surface makes it ideal for painting, with the paint going further on your walls. Wallrock Fibreliner Plus is a stronger variety than standard Fibreliner, which makes it better for reinforcing cracked plaster.
Like Fibreliner Smooth, it also has a smoother surface from the silk finish which is perfect for painting.
Email info coveryourwall. Polystyrene Insulation. Thermal Liners. Dampstop Thermic. Standard Lining Paper. Anaglypta Anaglypta Armadillo.
Anaglypta Armadillo Contract. Anaglypta Brick Collection. Anaglypta Dado Panels. You apply this to the wall to stop the filler or plaster from quickly removing too much water from the pasted lining paper.
Sizing a wall also allows you to slide the paper more easily into position when you start papering the wall. Lining paper is sometimes hung horizontally if it is being used as a base for wallpaper. Because I used the lining paper to get a good surface for painting, I hung the lining paper vertically. As you would when decorating a room.
If you decide to hang the lining paper horizontally, mark a level guide line with chalk and spirit level , see fig 1 below. If your lining paper has a width of 24 inches mm mark the line approximately 20 inches mm below the ceiling, this should easily take into account any discrepancies in the existing ceiling level.
Measure the width of the wall and add 6 inches mm to the length for trimming in the corners. You will need two pairs of steps and a walk board or planks supported where necessary to reach the work area.
Paste the lining paper and fold it the way you would with standard wallpaper hanging wallpaper. The only difference being you are hanging the lining paper horizontally rather than vertically. As shown in fig 1 above, hang each piece of lining paper in position butting the joints together, try to ensure there are no overlaps as these will show through your wallpaper eventually and spoil the finished look.
Yes, you can. Always allow at least 24 hours for the paste to thoroughly dry before painting lining paper. If the room is cold or damp, allow longer, perhaps a further 24 hours. Allow the same time before wallpapering over lining paper. If the room is cold or damp, leave it for a further 24 hours or so, if you can. By the way, if you do need to hire somebody to do DIY work for you, check out this article on the essential questions to ask a contractor before hiring them.
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